Moeraki Boulders

13^th  February

We were aiming for the east coast again, planning to get to the Moeraki boulders for the ecening so that Paul could practice taking arty shots. On the way we saw very many squashed possums - which the locals refer to as their "little speed bumps" and so we took the opportunity to have a look in some shops selling possum goods in Omarama.

Not far down the road was Lake Benmore and the Benmore Hydro Power Station. Unfortunately, it was closed for refurbishment so we could not take a tour. Instead, we drove past Lake Aviemore and along Waitaki River - looking out for white water rafters.We pulled over in Duntroon, to stick our heads into the fossil centre and we got chatting with Yorkshire man about places to visit. He gave us a useful map and a list of must sees.


We stopped for lunch at Oamaru lookout but didn't see any whales. I did however accidentally stumble upon a Blue penguin, who was nesting inside the rocks at the harbour and sheltering from the wind.

We drove past a wedding in front of the famous steam train and after far to much exposure to the wind we made it to the Moeraki Boulders for the evening, freedom camping at a nearby cafe car park for a quick dawn access picture (the things we do!)

Moeraki Boulders

Close up of inner rock

Paul got up too early again...

To Mount Cook

10^th February

Banks Peninsular - view point down to Akaroa

Driving around Banks Peninsular

From the Bank's peninsula we headed inland via Geraldine bound for the glaciers at Mount Cook - it took a little longer than planned because everything was interesting and we had to stop - spending nearly two hours gemstone hunting on a beach called Birdling's Flat.

We then drove across the Canterbury Plains - which were surprisingly dry, arid farmland that was a little bland from a tourist point of view. Nonetheless, we pressed on through the fields seeing bright blue canals brimming with ice cold glacial melt water and decided we needed to charge the van up, get an early night and set off first thing in the morning for the mountains.

So instead of making it to Mount Cook, we stopped about 100km short and stayed the night at a campsite called Grumpy's, just outside the town of Geraldine. The very friendly site owner informed us there was a washing machine at no cost - so naturally we filled it and spent a very pleasant if not cold night waiting for our washing and planning our hikes for the next day.

11^th February

Millions of bees at Lake Tekapu

We woke up early and made it to Lake Tekapu by lunchtime, stopping right beside the lake and possibly but jostling for space with many other camper vans and coaches full of tourists. We had taken a look around the town and booked ourselves onto a night time star gazing trip on Mount John and a guided tour of the research observatory, meaning we also needed to find a secure place to store our van. 

We chose the camp site adjacent to the lake - which was a little pricey, and didn't really give good views of the lake given the height of the trees. 

Lake Tekapu

Due to this we walked into town and watched the sun go down over the mountains and took loads of pictures of the Church of the Good Shepherd.  At 10pm we walked back to the Earth and Sky office - unfortunately the start gazing trip was cancelled due to bad weather.

The Church of the good shepherd at Lake Tekapu

We walked back slowly, very disappointed and had a few glasses of wine and an early night instead.

12^th February

The following morning we were up bright and bushy tailed driving up to the observatory for a day time viewing instead.

The observatory on Mt John next to Tekapu

Then we finally made it to the Mount Cook Village from Lake Tekapo. We hiked along Hooker Glacier Valley for three hours, which crossed two swing bridges over very big cascading rivers. Then we drove on a dirt track to the Tasman Glacier accessed by a shorter walk of only about 45 minutes.The track was very steep but worth the views.

Mt Cook

A little tired we pushed on, desperate to make up for lost time and drove along Lake Pukaki from Mount Cook Village.We stopped in the town of Twizel for supplies and decided not to hang about but to head for a freedom camping spot - we were a little unsure as there were no other vans around but in the end we gave in to bad weather, and the imminent darkness and parked near to the canal about thirty minutes outside of the town near to an old picnic area and lake.

dodgy weather over Mount Cook

We battened down the hatches for a very windswept night, but still managed to get some sleep in. We think only one car passed us through the whole night and that was at about 5am.

Akaroa and Banks Peninsula

Tea and Timtam break in Banks Peninsular

Akaroa

Melbourne to Christchurch

Melbourne Sunrise from the airport Hotel room

On leaving Australia we knew we were in for trouble the minute we got to the airport. 

Given the fact that I had all the necessary paperwork, bank statements, proof of not needing a visa etc. I was still refused a ticket to board the plane, this was even after the Pacific Blue steward had confirmed my identity to New Zealand officials - she asked me if I was Indonesian - and obviously I said - no!

After waiting for almost an hour for our tickets I was allowed to leave Australia bound for New Zealand. We got a quick bite to eat before the 4 hour flight and afterwards boarded the plan. As I set about making myself comfortable, Paul desperately tried to avoid getting the bug that the woman had next to him - despite his best efforts of trying to sit as close to me as possible she managed to cough on him constantly - yuk! The day was not looking good. 

That said, as we flew in over New Zealand we saw in all their glory the beaches of the west coast and then both the Tasman and the Hooker Glaciers, with Lakes Tekapo and Pukaki beyond them and Mount Cook centrally located and covered in snow. it was just spectacular.

Flying from Australia to New Zealand - 

descending over the Tasman Glacier to Christchurch

On arrival at Christchurch I yet again had more trouble with immigration. As I waved my passport, and as Paul had already gone through to the other side the button was pushed for back up... Instantly there was a swarm of people as my papers were taken, my passport was swiped from my hand - Paul was told to go away and get the luggage and everybody was suddenly giving me a very wide birth.

I was escorted away from passport control and seated outside an office and left there for 15 minutes. I regained my composure about ready to cry and a man greeted me, took me to a back office and explained he needed to ask me questions. I cannot remember exactly what he asked me or what I said except that he would grant me 6 months stay and that was it, he frog marched me back through passport areas, allowed me to jump the queue and I was in. I'm not sure what will happen when I try to leave though!

Anyway, we had arranged for the camper van company to collect us from the airport - unfortunately, they forgot to pick us up - so eventually - the time was now about 5.30pm local time and we had been travelling for about 8 hours given all the hassle at both airports, the forgotten transfer and the shuttle to the airport in the morning.

We were exhausted and our tolerance had worn thin - very thin - to the point that when we arrived we were taking no prisoners, rejecting the first van and then not letting anyone fob us off. 

We got a good van, 400 000 km on the clock and set off for the nearest supermarket, with a dinner destination in mind for that night.

Welcome to New Zealand!

"Welcome to New Zealand"

Back to Sydney via Melbourne

4^th February

Sydney Opera House

Paul & Dale in for a close-up...


...such as this.

We got to the airport and boarded a flight for Melbourne, where we had an hour to get across the airport and pick up a connecting fight to Sydney.

After sorting out the time differences we managed to call Laurel and she came to collect us, taking us across Sydney to our Australian base! We were re-united after our round trip of Australia and it felt like going home as we were able to tell Laurel and Dale about all of the places we had been to and hear about what they had been doing since we left them at Christmas.

Day off in Cairns

Didgeridoo-in

We met these people in the Woolshed in Cairns - we are sorry - we don't know who they are!

Alice Springs, Red Centre - The Olgas, Ayers Rock, Kings Canyon

31^st January

We flagged a taxi outside the backpackers and made our way to Cairns Airport – it was tiny and so informal. For internal flights we walked straight through security with a large bottle of water, all sorts of toiletries and the only thing they were worried about was that I had a small aerosol of antihistamine but on inspection – it was a case of ‘no worries’ and enjoy your flight.

Leaving Cairns

As we took off we had a wonderful view of the King Tide and the as yet un-flooded Cairns – we had narrowly escaped cyclone Olga – although Townsville copped it instead. As our luck would have it we were about to fly straight through the mass of wind and rain. Fortunately, we had a very capable pilot and the journey was not too bad – we even got a full view of the desert – not as red as some people had told us to expect though. Two weeks before we had arrived there had been a freak storm which had bought floods and so everything was currently in full bloom of greens and whites. It was very spectacular.

Flying into Alice Springs

We landed in 40 degree heat and were overwhelmed by the number of bush flies. Our pick up coach was running late and there were so many flies we retreated back into the airport. Eventually we got to the back packers and checked in – getting a double room to ourselves – and a few mosquitoes.

We headed into Alice Springs main shopping area to find some food and tried to cook in the overcrowded and bush fly ridden kitchen at the backpackers with limited success. Dinner was very swift and we returned to our room early, ready for our 6.30am pickup.

1^st February

Waking very early we stored our backpacks at the hostel and waited for our collection bus – it was an oversized four by four, with seating for 10 people in the back and five in the cab. When it arrived Paul and I were the last to squeeze in the back. Fortunately for us the crowd was of similar age and all very friendly.

Our tour group

We set off across the desert – green and not so red but beautiful none the less.

A busy (free) campsite in the middle of nowhere

It was a long drive but we made it to the resort town and had lunch at our campsite prepared by our host Mark. We then headed to the Aboriginal Culture Centre near to Ayers Rock and spent an hour walking around looking at random artworks and craftworks trying to make sense of the meanings but really completely in awe of the scale of Ayers Rock.

We then spent the rest of the afternoon hiking the Olgas. It was so very, very hot that our guide refused entry to anyone who did not have at least 1.5 litres of water. Unfortunately it was too hot for my shoes and they suffered, with the sole simply shearing off. A quick patch job of duck tape was needed. ( please don’t look at my feet in any of the pictures)

Walking in The Olgas

The Olgas

After this we then watched the sunset on Uluru ( Ayers Rock to everyone except the Aboriginals), with a glass of fizzy white wine in hand and cheese and biscuits on the side. After far too much fizzy stuff and getting a little romantic (usually resulting in a photograph of the pair of us) we headed back to camp.

Ayers rock at sunset

Evening dinner at was already prepared and waiting for us when we returned – a bbq of camel sausages, chicken wings, kangaroos steaks, with delicious potato salad all washed down with local selection of red and white wine.

We retired that evening to our permanent tent, complete with electricity, beds, a bedside lamp and a cooling fan, which was well placed given the 25 degrees at midnight!

2^nd February

We woke for a breakfast at 4am (far too early to eat) and piled onto the bus for  a trip to see the sunrise at Ayers Rock. Paul found his spot on the viewing platform and I wanted to find somewhere quiet for the pair of us – needless to say we both had very different pictures of the sunrise – and Paul wished he had not stayed with the other one hundred people watching the colours change.

Ayers rock at Sunrise - 3images stitched together (61MB)

a much better view point

By 7am and with the water bottles charged once more we set off for a 10km hike around the base of Ayers Rock – it was tough going. The temperature soared once again to 40 degrees by 10am and the bush flies were unbearable. However, the Rock from below was a hell of an experience – particularly as the light and the shadows were constantly changing.

Ayers Rock base walk

It's bigger than it looks -
especially when you walk around it

We finally made it back to the bus and were allowed a twenty minute rest with a piece of cake and an orange juice, before heading into the base area for an informative guided walk looking at Aboriginal Art, learning about stories of the Rock, and taking in some of the waterfall and rock formations. We were still harassed constantly by those pesky bush flies though – so much so that all we wanted to do was get inside.

We were taken to our next site, and whilst our host made dinner, we were given the opportunity to swim in the campsite pool – along with about forty other people. We had a long cool off in the pool before grabbing a cold shower. Once all the girls were out of the water Paul let the lads know about the tadpoles that he was chasing around the pool under water. Upon which there was a mass exodus and a fight for the showers, Paul did not get a shower!

We drove along the bumpiest dirt track ever to get to our next campsite.

It had a backdrop of red stone and comprised a shanty little kitchen cottage with a stone fireplace and a chimney, with a large wooden table large enough for about twenty people and outside Mark had a campfire burning with all the dinner cooking pots sat over the top. We sat and ate dinner of macadamia nut satay chicken and rice, which was followed with bread sponge cake cooked on the fire, and a chocolate cake a la Sarah Lee!

As the sun went down we retired outside to gaze at the stars, enjoy a glass of wine and talk about sleeping outside in swags. A little uncertain at first, I grabbed the huge bedding roll type tent I was handed – this was after being reassured that it would only be the dingoes that were remotely interested in eating me and maybe the odd scorpion that might crawl into the bed.

Campfire

We all got changed in the tents around us then formed a large line in the centre of camp with our swag bags, inside we placed our sheets, and a duvet for me, plus our pillows, and torches. Then we all zipped up, the lights were turned off, the fire was extinguished (due to health and safety requirements) and we slept outside for the whole night.

Although, after about an hour of not being able to sleep due to the large amount of crickets obsessed with landing on my face, I must admit that I put earplugs in, zipped the swag up completely, covered my head with the duvet and ducked for cover until morning!

3^rd February

We were woken yet again before sunrise and found dingo footprints all around camp, including near where we had been asleep. After a quick breakfast we headed down to Kings Canyon and embarked on a walk up Cardiac Hill – a 200m climb staircase comprised of rock scrambles and makeshift stairs. The views were astounding and we got to the top just as the sun came over the hill. It was baking!

Kings Canyon - you need a fly net!

Young frogs in some of Kings Canyon's rock pools

Kings Canyon

Our guide explained a lot about the plants, the animals and the aborigines habits, and then walked us through the canyon, stopping at famous places that had been used in movies and dishing out morning tea part way through the four hour walk.

We returned to camp – this time in a different kitchen for lunch and then got underway on the return trip to Alice Springs via Glenn Haven.

We were going to be travelling on unsealed dirt tracks and so the trip was extremely bumpy and at times uncomfortable – but the views were worth it and we saw some funny road signs on the way. We even pulled off the road to drive close to the wild Brumbee horses that were spotted along the way.

Wild Horses

straight talking Aboriginal road signs (left: slow down; right: speed up)

We spent the night at Haven Backpackers, this time in a shared room with six other male travellers. It was a bit cosy and we were woken at 4am two people who were heading to Ayers Rock. This was pretty awful planning by Haven, as there were six of us in the room who had just come back from a tour. Still, everyone had told us this was the best backpackers in town – so I dread to think how bad some of the others might be!

Cape Tribulation, Port Douglas

Croc spotting on the Daintree river

Cassowary warnings

Great Barrier Reef Tour