Alice Springs, Red Centre - The Olgas, Ayers Rock, Kings Canyon

31^st January

We flagged a taxi outside the backpackers and made our way to Cairns Airport – it was tiny and so informal. For internal flights we walked straight through security with a large bottle of water, all sorts of toiletries and the only thing they were worried about was that I had a small aerosol of antihistamine but on inspection – it was a case of ‘no worries’ and enjoy your flight.

Leaving Cairns

As we took off we had a wonderful view of the King Tide and the as yet un-flooded Cairns – we had narrowly escaped cyclone Olga – although Townsville copped it instead. As our luck would have it we were about to fly straight through the mass of wind and rain. Fortunately, we had a very capable pilot and the journey was not too bad – we even got a full view of the desert – not as red as some people had told us to expect though. Two weeks before we had arrived there had been a freak storm which had bought floods and so everything was currently in full bloom of greens and whites. It was very spectacular.

Flying into Alice Springs

We landed in 40 degree heat and were overwhelmed by the number of bush flies. Our pick up coach was running late and there were so many flies we retreated back into the airport. Eventually we got to the back packers and checked in – getting a double room to ourselves – and a few mosquitoes.

We headed into Alice Springs main shopping area to find some food and tried to cook in the overcrowded and bush fly ridden kitchen at the backpackers with limited success. Dinner was very swift and we returned to our room early, ready for our 6.30am pickup.

1^st February

Waking very early we stored our backpacks at the hostel and waited for our collection bus – it was an oversized four by four, with seating for 10 people in the back and five in the cab. When it arrived Paul and I were the last to squeeze in the back. Fortunately for us the crowd was of similar age and all very friendly.

Our tour group

We set off across the desert – green and not so red but beautiful none the less.

A busy (free) campsite in the middle of nowhere

It was a long drive but we made it to the resort town and had lunch at our campsite prepared by our host Mark. We then headed to the Aboriginal Culture Centre near to Ayers Rock and spent an hour walking around looking at random artworks and craftworks trying to make sense of the meanings but really completely in awe of the scale of Ayers Rock.

We then spent the rest of the afternoon hiking the Olgas. It was so very, very hot that our guide refused entry to anyone who did not have at least 1.5 litres of water. Unfortunately it was too hot for my shoes and they suffered, with the sole simply shearing off. A quick patch job of duck tape was needed. ( please don’t look at my feet in any of the pictures)

Walking in The Olgas

The Olgas

After this we then watched the sunset on Uluru ( Ayers Rock to everyone except the Aboriginals), with a glass of fizzy white wine in hand and cheese and biscuits on the side. After far too much fizzy stuff and getting a little romantic (usually resulting in a photograph of the pair of us) we headed back to camp.

Ayers rock at sunset

Evening dinner at was already prepared and waiting for us when we returned – a bbq of camel sausages, chicken wings, kangaroos steaks, with delicious potato salad all washed down with local selection of red and white wine.

We retired that evening to our permanent tent, complete with electricity, beds, a bedside lamp and a cooling fan, which was well placed given the 25 degrees at midnight!

2^nd February

We woke for a breakfast at 4am (far too early to eat) and piled onto the bus for  a trip to see the sunrise at Ayers Rock. Paul found his spot on the viewing platform and I wanted to find somewhere quiet for the pair of us – needless to say we both had very different pictures of the sunrise – and Paul wished he had not stayed with the other one hundred people watching the colours change.

Ayers rock at Sunrise - 3images stitched together (61MB)

a much better view point

By 7am and with the water bottles charged once more we set off for a 10km hike around the base of Ayers Rock – it was tough going. The temperature soared once again to 40 degrees by 10am and the bush flies were unbearable. However, the Rock from below was a hell of an experience – particularly as the light and the shadows were constantly changing.

Ayers Rock base walk

It's bigger than it looks -
especially when you walk around it

We finally made it back to the bus and were allowed a twenty minute rest with a piece of cake and an orange juice, before heading into the base area for an informative guided walk looking at Aboriginal Art, learning about stories of the Rock, and taking in some of the waterfall and rock formations. We were still harassed constantly by those pesky bush flies though – so much so that all we wanted to do was get inside.

We were taken to our next site, and whilst our host made dinner, we were given the opportunity to swim in the campsite pool – along with about forty other people. We had a long cool off in the pool before grabbing a cold shower. Once all the girls were out of the water Paul let the lads know about the tadpoles that he was chasing around the pool under water. Upon which there was a mass exodus and a fight for the showers, Paul did not get a shower!

We drove along the bumpiest dirt track ever to get to our next campsite.

It had a backdrop of red stone and comprised a shanty little kitchen cottage with a stone fireplace and a chimney, with a large wooden table large enough for about twenty people and outside Mark had a campfire burning with all the dinner cooking pots sat over the top. We sat and ate dinner of macadamia nut satay chicken and rice, which was followed with bread sponge cake cooked on the fire, and a chocolate cake a la Sarah Lee!

As the sun went down we retired outside to gaze at the stars, enjoy a glass of wine and talk about sleeping outside in swags. A little uncertain at first, I grabbed the huge bedding roll type tent I was handed – this was after being reassured that it would only be the dingoes that were remotely interested in eating me and maybe the odd scorpion that might crawl into the bed.

Campfire

We all got changed in the tents around us then formed a large line in the centre of camp with our swag bags, inside we placed our sheets, and a duvet for me, plus our pillows, and torches. Then we all zipped up, the lights were turned off, the fire was extinguished (due to health and safety requirements) and we slept outside for the whole night.

Although, after about an hour of not being able to sleep due to the large amount of crickets obsessed with landing on my face, I must admit that I put earplugs in, zipped the swag up completely, covered my head with the duvet and ducked for cover until morning!

3^rd February

We were woken yet again before sunrise and found dingo footprints all around camp, including near where we had been asleep. After a quick breakfast we headed down to Kings Canyon and embarked on a walk up Cardiac Hill – a 200m climb staircase comprised of rock scrambles and makeshift stairs. The views were astounding and we got to the top just as the sun came over the hill. It was baking!

Kings Canyon - you need a fly net!

Young frogs in some of Kings Canyon's rock pools

Kings Canyon

Our guide explained a lot about the plants, the animals and the aborigines habits, and then walked us through the canyon, stopping at famous places that had been used in movies and dishing out morning tea part way through the four hour walk.

We returned to camp – this time in a different kitchen for lunch and then got underway on the return trip to Alice Springs via Glenn Haven.

We were going to be travelling on unsealed dirt tracks and so the trip was extremely bumpy and at times uncomfortable – but the views were worth it and we saw some funny road signs on the way. We even pulled off the road to drive close to the wild Brumbee horses that were spotted along the way.

Wild Horses

straight talking Aboriginal road signs (left: slow down; right: speed up)

We spent the night at Haven Backpackers, this time in a shared room with six other male travellers. It was a bit cosy and we were woken at 4am two people who were heading to Ayers Rock. This was pretty awful planning by Haven, as there were six of us in the room who had just come back from a tour. Still, everyone had told us this was the best backpackers in town – so I dread to think how bad some of the others might be!